Day 24 - Fields and Frescos : Lascabanes to Lauzerte

We spent a peaceful night in our tent, but headed out early in an effort to avoid some of the heat. We made our way to the little kitchen building, where breakfast was already laid out, and after a quick meal of coffee and bread with jam, we continued uphill along the GR.

When we reached the top of the first hill we were rewarded with wonderful panoramic views over a river valley with steep rocky sides, and later over countryside which is more agricultural again.

About 4 km past Lascabanes we came to the chapel of St. Jean de Froid. This was a simple but beautiful structure on the side of the GR, with a fountain located outside whose waters apparently are responsible for miraculous healing.

The first large town we came to today was Montcuq, whose name was supposedly the fodder for a 1970's comedy sketch. This looked like a beautiful town, with a large Romanesque church and picaresque streets leading up hill through town to a large tower. We stopped to visit the church at the lower end of the town, which was home to a black Madonna that somewhat resembled the one in Rocamadour.

As with so many other towns along the Le Puy way, the GR did not lead into the center of the town, and we decided to continue on the path rather than explore further. As it turned out this was a bit of a mistake, since there were no other opportunities for cold drinks or snacks during the rest of today's hike.

A few kilometers after Montcuq we came to a relatively large Romanesque church in the village of Rouillac. It was in a very peaceful spot, and you could still see the remains of frescos on the roof inside, which were very beautiful.

We continued hiking for most of the afternoon through agricultural landscapes, which are now dominated by crops, fruit trees, and occasionally vineyards. The pastures with sheep and cows seem largely to have disappeared, although we did come across a pasture of donkeys, and we had passed a lone Quercy hut earlier in the day.

A few kilometers before Lauzerte the GR passed the 'town' of Montlauzen. We were hoping we might find a coffee there, so we climbed a very steep hill, hoping for the best. At the top we found an impressive looking church, which was closed, a cemetery, a cloister, a town hall, and a picnic area with fantastic views of the surrounding country. No coffee.

We continued on the trail which was a mix of asphalt roads, dirt tracks, and in the next section shaded pathways. The shaded parts were quite pleasant, and at one point we stopped to sample a few ripe and very delicious cherries at the side of the trail.

The last 3 km into Lauzerte were difficult. After Montlauzen the trail climbed so steeply ropes were required to navigate the washed out dirt track. A short flat area followed, and then an extremely steep and long descent down sloping concrete stairs. As we descended we had our first view of Lauzerte, which is a medieval fortified town atop a hill.

Almost immediately after reaching the bottom of the hill we began climbing again. We quickly emerged onto a busy road which had the modern amenities, including a supermarket and bakery. This being a Monday, everything was closed, so we continued up the hill into the old town.

The gite we are staying at is outside the old city walls, part way up the steep hill into town. The owner is extremely friendly, and the gite is very well set up. It is clean, has laundry facilities and plenty of clotheslines, breakfast is available beginning at 6am, it is possible to enter and exit after dinner, and we were able to check in when we arrived at 1:15, rather than waiting until later in the afternoon.

We have been noticing that since Cahors the trail seems much more geared towards pilgrims, as opposed to hikers, and it has taken on the feel of the Camino Frances. The trail markers now say Chemin de Compostelle, as well as GR65, there are shells adorning many establishments, and St. James is present in many of the churches. As the guidebook suggests, there is a different feeling here.

We checked in, did laundry, and then headed up the rest of the hill to the old town. Lauzerte has been designated one of the most beautiful villages in France, due to its narrow cobblestone streets, central square, well kept church, and artistic offerings. 

 We stopped to mail some nut cakes to family, and then headed down to the Jardin des Pelerins. This was a beautiful garden with a panoramic view out over the country. In among the flowers were photographic exhibits and quotes from the various Caminos, as well as many works of art. It was a peaceful and beautiful place.

Most of Lauzerte was closed as well, so we sat in the central square and had a wonderful salad with toast covered in melted cheese and various meats (some of us avoided the meat). It was a welcome meal, which was again prepared for us outside of normal eating hours in France. After our meal we continued to explore for a bit, but were soon driven back into the cool interior of the gite by the heat for the remainder of the afternoon.

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Practical Information:
Distance: 23.8 km

Cumulative ascent: 698 m

Cumulative descent: 654 m

Max Temperature: 31˚C

Accommodations: Gite d'Etape Les Figuiers