Day 27 - Historic Canals and the "Most Beautiful Village in France" : Moissac to Saint Antoine

We set off just as it was getting light around 5:30, our earliest start yet, to avoid some of the heat. The first 10 or so kilometres were a very easy and pleasant walk beside the canal, along a paved multi-use pathway. There was a nice breeze, and enough clouds to produce some raindrops every now and again.

Around 8:30 we came to the town of Malause, where we decided to make a short stop for some breakfast. Happily we found a bar still open which served some very good coffee, and a bakery just opposite that had some very tasty raisin buns. The town center was very nicely done, and had an interesting church with octagonal shaped spire.

After Malause we returned to another few kilometres of walking along the beautifully shaded canal-side path. When we reached Pommevic the GR made a detour through the town, which seemed to offer an assortment of amenities of interest to pilgrims.

After this we began a fairly long stretch of road walking through relatively flat agricultural fields. As we crossed the canal on our way out of Pommevic we got our first really good view of the nuclear reactor that we would be skirting for most of the day.

Just before we came to Auvillar, we walked through the little village of Espalais. This village has a beautiful church, and is home to a very nice looking gite. As we passed by we heard our first “Buen Camino!” cheerily called out by the gite owner, who was working in the garden.

Although the walk to Auvillar was relatively easy, there was a rather steep ascent into the village itself. Just as we reached the top of the hill, hot and sweaty from the climb, we found ourselves standing in front of a large tour bus group, who were getting an explanation of the architecture of the building we were beside. Some of them took photos of the 'real pilgrims' as we passed, and commented that they thought we were Canadian.

Auvillar has been classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France, and had the cobblestone streets, abundant flowers, tidy gardens and shutters to support this. It is a fortified village built in the 10^th century, which was once an important trading route and producer of earthenware and goose-feather quills. At the centre is the circular Halle, or market hall.

It also has a 17^th century clock-tower which dominates the town square,

as well as a very beautiful church with an unusual shape (it is more like a plus sign than a cross, being nearly as long as it is wide).

Auvillar also has a lookout point which offers a panoramic view of the land below. A sign explaining what we were seeing made it clear that we had walked across the full expanse of the landscape in front of us this morning (plus some, since Moissac itself wasn't visible). 

Many people stay in Auvillar because it is beautiful. However, we had decided to press on for another 8 km to make tomorrow less than 30 km. 

The walk to the tiny village of Saint Antoine was nearly all on asphalt roads, some of which were quite busy. Most of the drivers we have encountered before today have been really considerate of hikers and walkers, slowing down and inching towards the opposite side of the narrow roads. Some of the drivers today seemed to speed up at us, and a few yelled out the window, although we couldn't understand what they were saying. It made us wish we could understand regional dynamics and attitudes better.

When we reached Saint Antoine we found a one street village. The main street is very nice looking, and there is a large church with an interestingly painted ceiling. Inside is housed the arm of Saint Antoine, which is encased in silver and on display.

Both gites in the town seem to be up for sale. When we reached ours we discovered that our room is in a converted barn. It is partially below ground, and the hall between the rooms has no windows, which gives it a bit of a dungeon-like feel. However the rooms are cool and very clean, and there is a nice garden outside for sitting in. 

We dropped our stuff off and did laundry, and then headed out for a second circuit of the village. We went in search of the 'bar and restaurant' we had been seeing advertised for several kilometres before town, only to discover that the establishment is run out of someone's back yard. We have encountered many trail side cafes that were essentially garages converted to kitchens with a few tables out front, but this one seemed a little dodgy, so we decided to give it a miss. Perhaps this was unfair. 

 

We spent a quiet afternoon in our room, getting caught up and doing not too much. A relaxing day in a very small town.

_________________________________________________________________________________
Practical Information: 
Distance: 29.8 km

Cumulative ascent: app. 586 m

Cumulative descent: app. 549 m

Max Temperature: 29˚C

Accommodations: Gite d'Etape L'Oustal