Day 37 - The foothills of the Pyrenees : Navarrenx to Aroue
How perspective changes ... today we
only had to hike 19.5 km, so we slept in until 6:30, and had a late
buffet breakfast of chocolate croissants, coffee, and baguettes with
jam in the hotel. We then headed out across the square, through the
old city wall, and across the bridge. It was sad to leave Navarrenx
behind, because this was a very nice town.
Almost immediately we came to the
village of Castelnau, which was very beautiful and had lots of nice
looking gites. There was a church as well that was open, and we
stepped inside. One of the interesting aspects of this church was a
stained glass window dedicated to Saint Jean-Paul II.
After Castelnau the trail climbed a
little into the hills, and then descended into a forested stretch.
It was very beautiful, and the path crossed a stream, but
unfortunately there were some very large black flies that bit
viciously (like horseflies). This worked wonders to speed us up!
As we hiked we came across Andre, a
German hiker we have been traveling with nearly since the beginning.
We don't have any languages in common, but he has saved us from
getting lost twice, and he is a truly patient and nice man. He was
plagued with very bad blisters, and a head cold, and we hadn't seen
him in a few days. It was great to see him again and a real
inspiration to see someone trekking on in the face of so much
adversity.
Somewhere in the forested area we came
across what looked like two giant tree houses, way up in the trees.
The two gentlemen who had been hiking ahead of us throughout the day
said they were for hunting wild pigeons! They really put the deer
blinds we have back home in Ontario to shame.
We passed an area where some logging was taking place, and encountered a new kind of warning sign. Apparenlty there is a fear of trees chasing after you here :)
Once we emerged from the forested area
the trail again took us through rolling hills dotted with patchwork
fields, small farms, and the occasional tiny village. It was very
peaceful, and we could start to really see the foothills of the Pyrenees through the clouds.
Along the way we encountered a couple
donkeys who seemed to enjoy the apple and the ear massage we offered
very much, and later we encountered a couple horses that also
appeared to appreciate our stock of apples.
Around 10:30 we arrived at the
crossroads of Lacorne, where Jean Haget has a snack bar stop. This
consisted of a few picnic tables under a shelter, a large stock of
hot and cold beverages, and many homemade pates and preserves. We
stopped for a coffee and visited with two very friendly dogs.
After Lacorne there was a pleasant walk
through countryside. We passed through the villages of Charre and
Lichos, both of which were very tiny. Then it was a pleasant climb
up again, and eventually we emerged onto a busier highway. Around
500 m of road walking, and we came to La Ferme Bohoteguia, where we
are staying tonight.
The gite is a working Basque farm just
outside the tiny village of Aroue, and the owners are extremely
friendly and nice. The place is very clean, and fits quite a lot of
people. It is beautiful, and we spent a pleasant afternoon sitting
on the patio outside, enjoying local beer and sheep cheese.
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Practical Information:
Distance: 19.2 km
Cumulative ascent: 455 m
Cumulative descent: 477 m
Max Temperature: 26˚C
Accommodations: Gite Accueil a la Ferme Bohoteguia
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