Day 5 - Aubrac Hospitality : Saugues to Lajo

Today was our third day of hiking, and our bodies made their complaints known when we had to get up at 6:30 am this morning. Getting up was hard, but once we got going things became a little easier. The day began with a communal breakfast in our gite, and then a relatively flat walk out of town, with the cloud cover giving the landscape quite a dramatic effect at times, though also making photographing the region a little harder.

One of the first small villages we came to was La Clauze, where the cows were on the move. The most striking feature of this town is an octagonal tower that lacks a base, but instead is perched on a granite block. It represents the remains of a 14th century fortress.

Around 10:30 we came to the village of Le Falzat (I think), where we found a beautiful spot for a picnic. There was a lovely cafe offering hot and cold drinks and apple tarts.

When I went into the kitchen to ask for coffee, there was a lot of activity and happy chatter and it wasn't immediately obvious to me who was in charge, or how to ask for anything. One of the ladies we have seen hiking these past few days asked what I wanted, then proceeded to pour two coffees and carry them outside to our picnic table. Yet another example of how very nice the French people have been to us!

While we sat in the sunshine with our coffees we were visited by two dogs and a puppy (who bit with little sharp teeth). They provided much love and entertainment for all and I managed to share the ham from my ham sandwich with the mother dog.

During the rest of the day the path mostly wound through rolling fields and forested areas. After the village of Chazeaux, which offered refreshments, there was a steep climb up a rocky dirt path, but most of it was through shaded forest. Apart from that small section, today's walk wasn't too physically challenging.

Just before we reached Le Sauvage, which is a gite located on a farm in the middle of a large open field (but with a great view over a valley) we paused in the shade on the side of the forested path and consumed the contents of our picnic baskets (ham sandwich, banana, chips, and cheese). It was a nice break, and gave us the energy to continue up the hill.

Just before we reached Le Sauvage we encountered yet another picnic spot, albeit a little more rustic than the ones we have previously encountered. This is another difference we have noticed between the Camino Frances and the Le Puy Way - there are very nice picnic spots provided along the trail in France, as well as establishments where it is possible to purchase complete picnic lunches.

Many of the rest stops have roofs over them with several picnic tables, and they are all extremely clean. Many guidebooks and forums seem to suggest that the amenities of the Camino Frances are lacking on this section of the trail. We have found that although amenities may be farther apart, everything you need is there, and they are often very high quality.

After Le Sauvage there was a short walk through fields and another pine plantation, and then a gentle descent to the Fountain and Chapel of Saint Roch. The Chapel of Saint Roch was a small stone building with beautiful stained glass windows and a statue of the Saint Roch which had many elements of the statues of St. James that are seen in Spain.

Perhaps our favourite stained glass window depicted the standard St. James Shell with the pathway running through it onto the horizon. The chapel itself was presided over by a very nice lady, and we were able to get a stamp.

Yesterday we managed to make a reservation at the Gite d'etape -Chambre d'hotes a la Ferme Les Bouleaux Nains, run by Rachel and Didier Soulier. Lajo is 3.5 km off the GR 65, and there is a side trail to reach it, but Rachel came and picked us up. The accommodations are beautiful and clean, and the lady who runs the gite is super nice. She informed us that over the next three days there is a festival taking place in the Aubrac region, during which the Aubrac cows are driven up onto the plateau for summer grazing. As a result, many of the accommodations are reserved well in advance throughout the area. She offered to help us call for reservations, and very patiently helped book our next two days of accommodations. Though she only speaks a little English she was nonetheless really wonderful in helping us!

Tonight we had a dinner of cold meats (smoked ham, venison, deer), fresh bread, salad, pizza with goat cheese, mushrooms, tomatoes, and honey (amazing!), boiled vegetables, lamb and gravy, a shared cheese platter, bottles of rose and red wine, and a dessert of fruit cake the likes of which I will dream of in days to come. All of this made for perhaps the most hospitable and wonderful meal we have had so far on the Via Podiensis.

I would highly recommend giving this beautiful location, just slightly off GR65 a try, as you will not be disappointed!

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Practical Information:
Distance: 22.4 km

Cumulative ascent: app. 719 m

Cumulative descent: app. 396 m

Max Temperature: 27˚C

Accommodations: Chambres d'hotes Bouleau Nain