Day 4 - Bridges and Beasts on the GR65 : Saint-Privat-d'Allier to Saugues

Bridges and Beasts on the GR65

Pilgrimage along the Via Podiensis

Today was another sunny day, which turned out to be quite warm. We left the gite around 7:30 AM and began climbing rather steeply out of the village of Saint Privat d'Allier. As we progressed up the narrow track, which was bordered by beautiful and fragrant yellow flowering bushes, we had great views of the town and valley behind us.

 

Day 4 on the Via Podiensis

Soon after leaving the village, we came to the Chapel of Saint James and the adjacent ruins of a tower, which were perched high atop a rocky outcrop overlooking a valley and a town.

The chapel was very small but had a lovely stained glass window depicting a pilgrim, and it was quite magical inside.  As we looked out over the vast landscape, we didn't yet realize that we would be walking down into the valley below and then back up the other side!

As we descended into the valley, mostly on paved roads and gravel tracks, we kept a close watch for lizards.  We saw several different kinds, the most impressive being a large green one with a bright blue head.  They were sunning themselves on the side of the trail and hidden among the wildflowers among the rocks.

As we approached the town of Monistrol d'Allier, we passed through a forested stretch of predominantly pine trees. Underneath were portions of exposed rock covered in moss and lichens. To someone from Canada, the smells and sights of this forest patch were very reminiscent of the Shield (except for the lizards!).

Monistrol and Pont Eiffel

In the town of Monistrol, we crossed over the Pont Eiffel (built by the same architect that made the famous tower in Paris) and then stopped for a second breakfast of coffee and brioche at the side of the river.  It was a very beautiful spot and a delicious snack!

After the town we had a very steep climb out of the valley, passing a small chapel built into the side of the cliff.  It was beautiful but closed.

In that area, we saw some truly amazing rock formations - huge cliffs with swirling layers of rock and column-like patterns.  The cliffs were full of swallows, busily nesting and searching for insects.

 

 

Saugues France

The rest of the walk was again through rolling countryside, with the highlights being sheep, cows, and some very impressive birds of prey. Around 1:30, we descended into the town of Saugues and passed a procession of carved statues, including one of the Beast of Gevaudan.

There is a legend in this region that a beast resembling a wolf with enormous teeth and a sweeping tail killed 100 people between 1764 and 1767.  It apparently ran a muck until Jean Chastel, a local, dealt with it.

Our accommodations in Saugues are in the Gite Margeride.  Our room resembles a dorm room and seems to be adjacent to a boy's school.  It is basic but very clean and light, and the receptionist is extremely nice and helpful and speaks a little English.

Exploring Saugues

We walked around town, selected some delicious fresh peaches and apples for a snack from the local grocery store, and visited the Church of Saint Medard, which is dedicated to Saint Benilde, the patron saint of Saugues.  It was a beautiful church inside, with parts dating back to the 13th century.

After exploring we returned for a communal meal at the gite, which consisted of bread, wine, salad, cheese, pasta, chicken, and a delicious raspberry flan for dessert.  We spent the evening strolling around the town and attempting to sort out our accommodations for the next few days.

We had heard reports that this trail was not too full, even during the busy season, but the place we had planned to stay in tomorrow is full, as are the next couple, so we will be staying a ways off the main trail in Lajo.  Adventures to be had!

See you on the Trail!

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Practical Information:

Distance: 24 km

Cumulative ascent: 882 m

Cumulative descent: 787 m

Max Temperature: 20˚C

Accommodations: La Margeride