From Le Puy to Santiago: How the GR65 Via Podiensis Compares to the Camino Francés

“Walking gets the feet moving, the blood moving, the mind moving. And movement is life.”

 

Carrie Latet

 

Understanding Pilgrimage across France and Spain

 

Pilgrims walking across France toward the Pyrenees are often told that the Camino de Santiago begins in Spain. In practical terms, this is true for many modern travellers who start their pilgrimage in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and follow the Camino Francés west across northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela. Yet for those who begin in the medieval town of Le Puy-en-Velay, the pilgrimage begins long before reaching the Pyrenees. The Via Podiensis, known today as the GR65, forms one of the great historical routes of the Chemins de Saint-Jacques, carrying pilgrims across the varied landscapes of southern France toward the Spanish frontier.

 

Walking the Via Podiensis and the Camino Francés only months apart reveals how naturally these two routes belong together. The GR65 does not merely lead toward Spain; it prepares pilgrims for the experience that awaits beyond the mountains. By the time a hiker reaches Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the physical rhythm of pilgrimage has already taken hold. Long days of walking, simple accommodations, and the steady appearance of scallop shells and yellow arrows have already reshaped daily life into a set and enjoyable routine. Crossing the Pyrenees into Spain therefore feels less like beginning a journey than continuing one.  This realization shifts how one can view pilgrimage as a whole.

 

Comparing the Via Podiensis and Camino Francés

 

The first striking difference between the two routes lies in their landscapes. The Via Podiensis begins amid the volcanic hills of the Massif Central around Le Puy-en-Velay, where narrow streets wind beneath cathedral spires and ancient pilgrimage traditions remain deeply embedded in the town’s identity. From the moment pilgrims leave the cathedral steps and descend into the surrounding countryside, the path moves through a mosaic of rural France. Fields of grain, rolling hills, stone farmhouses, and quiet hamlets appear in steady succession. Villages often gather around Romanesque churches whose worn stone portals testify to centuries of pilgrimage.

 

These landscapes carry a distinctly French character shaped by history, agriculture, architecture, and regional culture. Pilgrims pass through regions known for cheeses, wines, and culinary traditions that have developed over centuries. Small bakeries and cafés come to define the journey, and the rhythm of rural life found in markets, village squares, and shaded terraces becomes central for pilgrims.  In this regard, walking the GR65 is as much an exploration of French culture as it is a pilgrimage toward Santiago.

 

In comparison, the Camino Francés gives way to landscapes that feel both broader and more dramatic. After crossing the Pyrenees, the route traces across northern Spain through a succession of regions that each possess their own character – Basque, Spanish, Galician. Navarre’s green valleys gradually give way to the vineyards of La Rioja, which in turn lead toward the exposed plains of the Meseta. Later stages introduce the rugged mountains of León and the forests of Galicia before pilgrims finally descend toward Santiago de Compostela.

 

Where the Via Podiensis moves through forests, rural landscapes and past romantic medieval castles, the Camino Francés frequently presents wider horizons and larger geographical shifts. Long stretches across the Meseta expose pilgrims to vast skies and plains that extend onto the horizon. These expansive spaces can feel both exhilarating and demanding, reminding walkers of the scale of the Iberian Peninsula and the endurance required to cross it on foot.

 

History and Tradition on Camino

 

Despite these geographical contrasts, the two routes share a deep historical continuity with one another. Medieval pilgrims travelling from northern Europe would often cross France along routes such as the Via Podiensis before entering Spain through the Pyrenees. The modern GR65 therefore preserves an important portion of the historic pilgrimage network that once connected distant regions of Europe with Santiago. When walking through villages along the route, it is not uncommon to encounter ancient hospitals, churches, and landmarks that once served pilgrims centuries ago.

 

The Camino Francés represents the continuation of this tradition on the Spanish side of the mountains. Its towns and cities display the architectural and cultural legacy of centuries of history and pilgrimage. Roman bridges span rivers that pilgrims have crossed for generations, monasteries stand beside the path, and historic plazas continue to welcome travellers arriving from across the world. The continuity between the French and Spanish routes becomes increasingly clear as one reflects on the long chain of roads that lead toward Santiago.

 

Social Environment of Pilgrimage

 

The social atmosphere of the two routes differs in important ways as well. The Via Podiensis tends to attract fewer international pilgrims than the Camino Francés, creating an environment that often feels more intimate. Many walkers on the GR65 are French pilgrims undertaking regional sections of the route, while others are travellers who are either beginning a longer journey toward Santiago or on their second pilgrimage and have chosen this less busy route. The smaller number of pilgrims often encourages more time in nature and a slower pace en route in gîtes and village cafés.

 

The Camino Francés, by contrast, is the most travelled Camino route in Spain and attracts pilgrims from around the world. The diversity of nationalities and languages encountered along the trail reflects the global appeal of the Camino de Santiago. Albergues and hostels often fill with walkers from many countries sharing meals, stories, and experiences at the end of long days on the trail. This international atmosphere creates a dynamic social environment that can feel both vibrant and energizing.

 

Experiencing these two routes within a short span of time highlights how the Via Podiensis serves as a form of preparation for the Camino Francés. By the time pilgrims reach the Pyrenees, they have already spent weeks adapting to the routines of long stages of pilgrimage and hiking. The early morning departures, the daily distances, and the routine of walking from village to village have become familiar. The physical demands of carrying a pack and navigating long distances no longer feel foreign.  Though the arrival of crowds in SJPP can be shocking for those having spent the previous month amid smaller groups of people.

 

Crossing into Spain therefore becomes less about learning how to walk the Camino and more about continuing a journey already underway. The famous ascent from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port into the Pyrenees marks a symbolic transition between countries, yet it also reinforces the continuity of the pilgrimage. The same scallop shells guide the way, the same yellow arrows mark the trail, and the same steady rhythm of footsteps carries pilgrims westward.

 

Pilgrim Infrastructure

 

Another distinction between the two routes lies in their relationship with tourism and infrastructure. The Camino Francés has developed a robust network of hostels, restaurants, and services designed to accommodate large numbers of pilgrims. This infrastructure makes the route accessible to walkers with varying levels of experience and logistical planning. Pilgrims can often decide their daily distances spontaneously, knowing that accommodations and food are likely to be available in the next town or one near their chosen destination.

 

The Via Podiensis offers a different logistical experience. While gîtes and pilgrim accommodations exist along the GR65, they tend to be smaller and more closely integrated into local communities. Meals are often shared at communal tables where hosts prepare regional dishes for the evening gathering of pilgrims. These settings create a warm and personal atmosphere that reflects the hospitality traditions of rural France.  However, they are also less regularly spaced along the route and less focused on pilgrims alone.

 

Walking both routes therefore provides a fascinating contrast between two styles of pilgrimage hospitality. In France, evenings are often spent in quiet village homes or small guesthouses where conversation flows slowly over regional cuisine and local wine. In Spain, larger albergues fill with pilgrims sharing stories in multiple languages while preparing for the next day’s walk. Both experiences contribute to the rich social fabric that defines the Camino tradition, yet each has its own style and feel.

 

Setting out on Pilgrimage

 

Perhaps the most meaningful connection between the GR65 and the Camino Francés emerges through the sense of continuity that develops across the journey. Pilgrims who walk the Via Podiensis before entering Spain experience the Camino not as a single trail but as part of a much larger network that stretches across Europe. Each step along the French countryside becomes part of a longer narrative that ultimately leads toward Santiago.

 

When arriving in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port after weeks on the GR65, the town feels less like the beginning of a pilgrimage and more like a gateway between two chapters of the same journey. The narrow streets filled with pilgrims preparing to cross the Pyrenees echo the anticipation felt at the start of any long walk. Yet for those who have already crossed hundreds of kilometres of French countryside, the journey has already begun to reshape their understanding of distance, endurance, and travel.

 

Pilgrimage Routes across Europe

 

Walking the Via Podiensis and the Camino Francés within months of each other ultimately reveals how pilgrimage routes evolve across landscapes and cultures while preserving a shared spiritual and historical thread. The gentle hills and villages of southern France gradually give way to the expansive horizons of northern Spain, yet the experience of walking and routines on the Way remain remarkably consistent. Each day begins with the same simple act of placing one foot in front of the other and following the path that countless pilgrims have travelled before.

 

For many travellers, the Camino Francés will remain the iconic route to Santiago, celebrated for its historic towns, varied landscapes, and vibrant pilgrim community. Yet those who approach it from the Via Podiensis discover a deeper continuity that stretches far beyond the Spanish border across France, Germany, Italy and many other nations. The pilgrimage does not suddenly begin in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Instead, it emerges and weaves across Europe long before the Pyrenees come into view.

 

Seen in this way, the GR65 and the Camino Francés are not separate journeys but parts of a single pilgrimage that traverses two countries. Together they form one of the great walking routes of Europe, linking the cathedral steps of Le Puy-en-Velay with the ancient shrine of Santiago de Compostela through landscapes shaped by centuries of faith, culture, and travel.

 

See you on the Way!