Day 10 - Detours and Chocolate Nuns : Espalion to Bonneval Abbey

This morning we shared a wonderful breakfast of bread, croissants, homemade jams, a special cake, and strawberries just picked from the garden. We parted ways with Mattias around 8:30, and set out to photograph and explore some of Espalion while we waited for the tourist office to open so we could ask for directions to Bonneval Abbey.

We had decided that today we would take a short detour off the GR65 to visit the Abbey, which was founded in 1147. It has had a spotted history, falling under English control during the Hundred Year's War and being pillaged during the War of Religion. Today it is home to a community of 35 Cistercian nuns which is essentially self-sufficient, partially due to the chocolate they produce.

We had printed off a map of the route to the Abbey, but it wasn't clear which street we should take out of Espalion. We asked in the tourist office, and they suggested we follow the rue Segala, which appears to be the shortest route, and should go to the town of Ferrandez.

This road led us steeply up through a modern subdivision with wonderful landscaping and beautiful homes. However, we soon found a locked gate blocking our path, and a sign marking the way forward as private property. A very nice man who was out mowing his lawn directed us to the correct route, which is up the rue Falgac, and is actually very well marked with blue blazes all the way up to the Abbey.

As we climbed we were treated to spectacular views over Espalion, as we walked through a modern subdivision. The path eventually turned from paved road to gravel track, and then to a very thin overgrown footpath. At one point it seemed to go through someone's backyard, and at another point we passed a granary that looked a lot like a castle, and also turned out to be private property.

Towards the end of the walk the path led between thick privet-like hedges, so we got the sense that we were walking through a green tunnel. When the path again left the road during the final stretch before the Abbey it became really magical. It felt like we were walking along the steep forested river bank into J.R. Tolkien's Rivendell.

When we got to the Abbey it was incredibly beautiful, quiet, and peaceful, despite having quite a lot of visitors. We waited outside the gates in the shade of a tree for the gift shop to open, which is where we were supposed to check in. The abbey is set on the side of a steep forested valley, removed from the world. If you look down the valley you can catch a glimpse of farmed fields in the distance, but its feels very remote. It was a wonderful place to sit, and Sean spent some time photographing the wildflowers, bees, and lizards that were nearby.

The accommodations in the abbey are simple but nice, and they request that visitors are as quiet as possible, maintaining silence in the courtyards and halls. At 6:30 we shared a meal with another visitor from Lille, France who had spent a week in the Abbey. She spoke a little English, and helped explain how the abbey works. It was a nice meal of soup, salad with eggs and a very tasty dressing, pasta, bread and cheese, and baked apples for desert. We all helped clean up, and then returned to our rooms for the evening.

The only sounds are those of the birds and insects, and it is wonderfully peaceful here. I would highly recommend taking this detour if you have the chance!

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Practical Information: 
Distance: 7 km

Cumulative ascent:

Cumulative descent:

Max Temperature: 26˚C

Accommodations: Bonneval Abbey